AHAs / BHAs / PHAs

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What is it?

The world of acids can be divided into a few categories, three to be precise: Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) and the underdog, Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs). If you’re using a skincare acid, it’ll fall into one of these three categories.

AHAs

These may ring some bells as you’re bound to find an AHA already hiding in your skincare routine. AHAs are chemical exfoliators that can be extremely helpful for oily or blemish-prone skin if used on a regular basis.
The top dogs in this category are Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid. You can find them mixed in with serums, moisturisers, cleansers and toners, depending on how high of a dosage you want to use (the smaller the percentage, the less potent the formula).

BHAs

Whilst they are also chemical exfoliators, AHAs and BHAs treat different skin problems.
AHAs are ideal for those concerned with ageing skin, whereas BHAs are best for those who are one the oilier side of the skincare spectrum and struggle with acne, blackheads and milia (the little white bumps you sometimes see under the skin).
Whilst AHAs are only water soluble, BHAs are oil soluble, which is why they are ideal for those struggling with an oil-slick T-zone. They can get below the oil that’s clogging up your skin and also have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. So they help spots disappear quicker and calm any redness.
The most popular BHA is Salicylic Acid. It can be found in a range of different formulas targeted at spot treatments.

PHAs

The underdog of the acid trilogy, PHAs don’t get the praise they deserve.

“PHAs (AKA Polyhydroxy Acids) are very similar to traditional alpha hydroxy acids, because both work by breaking down the ‘glue’ that binds dull, dead cells to the surface of the skin.” Daniel Isaacs, Scientific Director at Medik8

They’re especially beneficial for those who find other acids too strong. ‘Even very sensitive skin types can harness the resurfacing powers of PHAs,’ says Daniel. ‘In clinical studies, they have been proven to be compatible with dry, itchy skin conditions such as eczema and atopic rosacea.’
The most common PHA acids are Gluconolactone, Galactose and Lactobionic – bit of a mouthful to say but well worth looking out for the next time you’re in the market for a new chemical exfoliant.

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